General Interest

mammut smart alpine vs mega jul

Giving out a lot of slack felt smooth and instinctual. Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay ... Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Kit. Along with a harness and rope, one of the most essential pieces of rock climbing equipment is the belay device. This is by far the cheapest of the three devices. Belay devices—no matter the design—all use friction (created by a bend in the rope) to hold tension and keep the climber from falling. I’ve experienced the skin con on the Mego Jul and this feels like a deal breaker. The Mega Jul has a learning curve, as with any other belay device, but after a few times belaying on it, most folks are proficient. It’s your lifeline on everything from beginning top ropes to full-on alpine epics. But when used incorrectly, the consequences can be dramatic. And as is the case with all assisted-braking scenarios, belayers should be sure to keep one hand on the brake strand at all times. Mammut Smart 2.0 Belay Device. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Lowering a climber felt effortless and totally controlled – mainly due to the long thumb lever where one can really tweak the angle with precision. This page is powered by a knowledgeable community that helps you make an informed decision. We currently use a Black Diamond ATC Guide, so we are comfortable with tubular devices. 5c Climbers. “What was that? The device has a very distinctive clicking noise when in use and can be heard from across the gym or crag, it’s not a big deal but can get a little annoying. Here, we’ll cover the basics to help you find the right belay device for your needs. ... - Is not as versatile vs Mammut Smart (Alpine version). That said, on multi-pitch climbs, it is common for a team to have one assisted-braking device (such as a Petzl Grigri) and a second auto-blocking tube or plate device to accommodate two ropes. There was nothing to worry about while belaying as the device felt incredibly intuitive and the smoothest in feeding slack, which for us is important. I guess it’s a question of habit & taste. However the friction is higher than the others, and we do not recommend this for hard sport climbing where quick slack is needed for clipping. The belay is more ergonomic and less constraining (being that the device is not attached to the belayer’s harness), and when the climber falls or weights the rope, the climber strand locks down on the brake strand and prevents the rope from slipping. The vast majority of tube-style devices and plates have this capability, but most assisted-braking devices are designed to handle just one rope (with the exception of the Edelrid Mega Jul and the Mammut Smart Alpine). Enter the Mammut Smart Alpine, which brings unprecedented versatility to an assisted-braking device. inb4 someone says Alpine Up, is it really worth it if Alpine Up costs and weighs as much as Grigri 2? Mega Jul: designed for single ropes; Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes; Jul 2: designed for single pitch climbing at the gym or crag; How the Giga Jul Works: The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. These devices were the; Edelrid Mega Jul, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, Mammut Smart and we also tried the auto-locking Beal Birdie. Note the Mammut smart (excluding alpine) is of thicker diameter 8-10.5mm and not ideal for Trad. Belaying with Edelrid Mega Jul. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport provides assisted-braking belays for both single and double/twin ropes (7.9 to 11 mm). We can now rest assured that we have done the work in our pursuit for an assisted-braking device. I first noticed this belay device hanging off the harness of a friend who runs a local climbing shop. All devices were fall-tested and performed equally, as one would expect and hope. The CAMP Ovo and Kong Gi-Gi are two of our top choices. There are a few other methods of lowering where this can be avoided and are probably deemed “correct”, but it’s just not instinctive. Eastern Cape – Port Elizabeth The Smart Alpine is lighter than Grigri but heavier than the Mega Jul. Additionally, they are able to accommodate two ropes for rappelling (in addition to standard belaying with a single rope). Intuitive belay device with reliable blocking of the climbing rope. sale Current price: $31.47 Original price: $44.95 30% off. With more and more options for a safer belay, The Zine got its hands on two of the most innovative devices, The Mammut Smart Alpine and the Petzl GRIGRI + (Plus). If your rope is even a little twisted, this compounds the issue. Auto-blocking tubes—also known as plaquettes—offer the same versatility as tube devices: they can handle a large range of rope diameters, have two slots for rappelling or belaying with double ropes, and are lightweight and inexpensive. If you’re climbing with two ropes, make sure you have the proper tool for the job. Learning to climb can be a daunting endeavor. While correct belay technique is essential, having the best belay device for your needs definitely helps. A rope is... A shadow passes over. It also felt like the safest for beginners with a fairly aggressive assisted-lock. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. Gauteng – Pretoria These are our first choice for top rope and cragging scenarios, but are not as versatile as auto-blocking tube devices for multi-pitch climbing or rappelling. Unlike the other two devices, you have to use the thumb lever at all times when feeding slack. 30cm from belay loop) for abseiling. This would certainly improve with practice, but the other devices definitely win here. As always, be sure to learn and practice this knot before heading out to the crag. $44.95. In a situation where you drop or forget a belay device, a Munter hitch can be used for all belaying or rappelling scenarios: lead belaying, belaying a follower, top roping, and rappelling. When all else fails, there’s always the Munter hitch. We both have a Mammut 10mm rope, a classic workhorse. One downside to active assisted-braking devices is that the camming unit places extra wear and tear on the rope. The lowering did not involve any lost skin, but was a little jerky at times. Many beginner climbers will start with a tube device—the CAMP Shell being our favorite budget option—but for $10 more, an auto-blocking tube device (see below) provides a huge bump in versatility. I’m getting the Mammut smart alpine (double rope, smaller diameter) as replacement to enjoy it more with trad ropes. Tube devices are relatively lightweight and inexpensive and can handle a wide range of rope sizes (for example, the Black Diamond ATC can be used with ropes 7.7–11mm). But it was big. Western Cape – Rocklands Who needs skin anyway. If it weren’t for the open design causing painful lowering and occasional twisting then this would have won. Usefull if you plan to stay in space long, (cleaning, i guess bolting) but not to rappel. As skinnier and skinner ropes hit the market, it’s very important make sure that your belay device safely pairs with your rope. But in a situation where the climber is being belayed from the top of the climb (common in multi-pitch climbing), the extra loop attaches the device to the anchor, allowing the leader to belay the follower more safely (the rope locks down on itself and assists in braking). Furthermore, many of these devices cannot be used to belay the follower from above (as is common in multi-pitch climbing). Find the best belay devices from Black Diamond, CAMP, DMM, Edelrid, Grivel, Mammut, Petzl, Wild Country. What you want is the Mammut Crag Smart HMS. I have the smart alpine and I struggled initially with the difficulty of releasing whilst abseiling. Our stories are our lifeblood, and by sharing our stories we work to uplift our human experience, and amplify our connection to our natural world. Additionally, assisted-braking devices are more complicated to operate than tube-style devices, and each design comes with its own learning curve. Let’s start with the Smart. But if you are lead climbing, it can be a hindrance. Trad dads – this one is probably for you. Price: $18Style: TubeWhat we like: Cheap, simple, durable, and easy to use.What we don’t: To belay from above in a multi-pitch scenario, you’ll need to step up to a device like the ATC-Guide below.See the Black Diamond ATC, Price: $110Style: Assisted-brakingWhat we like: Assisted braking allows for a more secure belay.What we don’t: Heavy, expensive, and requires a bit of a learning curve. The safety gate prevents proper usage with regular tubers, as Mammut explains in their instructions. Press enter for more information. We also found that the rope had the potential to slide around and twist into odd positions – probably no worse than a conventional tube, but the other devices were superior in this regard, especially the Black Diamond ATC Pilot. The recommended way of using the device is with your thumb in the thumb catch but we found it wasn’t necessary most of the time, which allows one to use a traditional two-handed motion to reduce fatigue. If you’re the type that likes to keep it simple, any locking carabiner will do the trick. The other devices do not have this problem. In this context, the main concern is cross-loading: you never want the carabiner to flip sideways on your harness, where the force begins pulling side-to-side rather than parallel with the spine. Not big. Rock Climbing & Bouldering in South Africa, Assisted braking belay device comparison: Edelrid Mega Jul, ATC Pilot, Mammut Smart, https://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5172, Garrreth Bird and Richard Halsey open new line at Slanghoek, Above the Clouds Highline | Carte Blanche. However, the Pilot also resembles a mini version of Mammut Smart Alpine (for ropes 8.9mm to 10.5mm). Because we know many of you are coming here for belay device recommendations before you even know how to use one, we’ve classified our top picks by climbing discipline, so you can make your purchase and start learning. Any thought? The thumb catch was easy to get to and the only reason to look down at it was to see how much slack was in the system. Mammut Smart. 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars from 11 reviews 5 11. Black Diamond ATC Pilot – Weight: 92 grams. They outperform the Smart Alpine in lead belaying, and are much smaller and lighter. For comparison, i find the CT Click-up to be real loud when it click and fussier to unclick. The alpine version of the award-winning Smart can also be used with double and half ropes as well with thin single ropes, making it the ideal companion for all alpine rock and ice pursuits. Thank you CityROCK for the opportunity for us to voice our relatively inexperienced voices. In certain situations—such as climbing as a party of three, using twin ropes, and rappelling—you’ll need a belay device that can handle two ropes. Overall, the Mega Jul and Micro Jul are superior to the Mammut Smart Alpinet. Thanks for that guys, Very insightful, thanks guys! Edelrid probably eliminated the thumb shield to keep the weight down and keep the design simple, but we feel a minimalist thumb shield would have gone a long way to making lowering more pleasant. Other examples of this type of belay device include the Petzl Reverso 4, Black Diamond ATC Guide, Cassin Piu 2, Edelrid Mega Jul, Kong Gigi, Mammut Smart, Mammut Bionic Alpine … We did not feel that any would not catch the climber. Best value: The Mammut Smart is great if you are a beginner and mostly top roping. Mammut Smart Alpine. An auto-blocking tube device has the same design as a standard tube device, but with an additional attachment point for belaying from the anchor. Tube  Well written and well-considered points. With the new Edelrid Mega Jul there are now three tubular assisted devices to choose from at the CityRock gear shop, so what better time could there be to do a roundup. That being said, the Birdie is cheaper and performed really well. What am I forgetting? Best all-rounder: The Mega Jul was a very close second. If only BD made a Pilot version for 2 ropes. The one serious grievance i have with the smart is rappel = abseil. We recommend belay plates for one main purpose: belaying a follower (or two) from an anchor (as in a multi-pitch scenario). The newly developed brake insert blocks the rope in the event of a fall. Again, personnal taste. As we mentioned in depth above, there are times (mainly in multi-pitch environments) when a climber will belay his or her partner from above. Weight of a few grams didn’t bother us much, so this was fairly low on our priority list. But although it’s a necessity, purchasing a device can be extremely confusing—there are countless choices and an absolute imperative to use it correctly. The good news for climbers is that there are more quality products and styles to choose from than ever before. There’s just so much to get used to, which can feel even more intimidating any time you’re off the ground. Climbing.co.za © 2003-2017 Climb ZA. They're fine devices but I much prefer the ATC Pilot. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! Belaying with it was fluid and did not hinder the climber at any point. These devices are generally lighter and less expensive than active devices. We have never “written up” anything before so don’t judge us too hard! Learn how to use all the features on this device. Assisted-braking devices are becoming increasingly popular, largely due to the amount of safety that they add to belaying and rappelling. Their product slogan says “It’s Catchy” – but perhaps too catchy for us and requires a lot more practice. Some assisted-braking devices are even made in two different sizes (the Mammut Smart Alpine, for example, comes in both a 8.7–10.5mm and a 7.5–9.5mm model) because their ranges are so limiting. New for 2011, the Smart Alpine is a two-slot version of Mammut’s Smart device ($29.95). Braking-force support is another way of … Continue reading "Mammut Smart Alpine" Wanting to be as informed as possible we asked if we could try all the new devices that the CityRock gear shop sold. Below we provide the necessary details for the four styles, including our top picks for each. We enjoyed the simple robust construction and the no frills belaying that came with that. One of our favorite assisted belay device in the market the Edelrid Mega Jul. The Climbing Zine strives to share the diverse voices, art, and experiences of our worldwide climbing community. 5 colors available. In general, assisted-braking devices are heavier and more expensive than tube-style devices, and most of them (the Mega Jul and Mammut Smart Alpine being two exceptions) are only designed to operate with a single rope. I’ve been wondering about the Mammut Smart, as it can do 2 ropes. I wanted an assisted braking belay device to give my wife more confidence in lead belaying. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Shoes, harness, rope, helmet, cams, locking carabiners, draws, chalk bag, wind shell, puffy, rain shell, base layer. Ah, the good old (bug, tube, etc) – it’s classic, dependable, and totally prone to error. The Edelrid Mega Jul is on the left, the Mammut Smart Alpine on the right. Passive devices use their geometry (a sharp bend, for example) to lock the rope in place, as seen in the popular Edelrid Mega Jul and the Black Diamond ATC-Pilot. Often used in canyoneering and rappelling-specific contexts, belay plates have a few uses for climbing, although most beginning climbers will opt for the tube-style and assisted-braking devices above. But in a pinch, the Munter hitch can be a lifesaver. Best value: The Mammut Smart is great if you are a beginner and mostly top roping. HUGE. I loved it so much i basically didnt touch my Grigri 2 any more. But for a one-stop shop—your friend, climbing mentor, guide, or teacher can take it from here—here’s our take. To complete your setup, see our articles on the best climbing harnesses and best rock climbing shoes. We have been climbing for about 2 years so we are relative newbies – we are mainly focused on outdoor sport climbing. The design of each device varies, but they all share a similar ability to lock down in the event of a fall (when the rope is weighted), thus aiding the belayer in holding the climber. CityROCK loved this review found in the forum, so we’ve posted it here for you to enjoy! This device is super light and can accommodate two ropes and is multi-pitch enabled. Lowering was unpleasant and the device lost the most points here. The Safe Option. The Winner: The Black Diamond ATC Pilot was the most pleasant to use, and immediately felt instinctive. Built on the experience the new Smart 2.0 offers significantly improved braking effectiveness as well as optimized geometry and intuitive handling. The other devices allow one to feed the slack much more like a traditional tubular device, and only when you are really feeding quickly you do not need to use the thumb lever to prevent it auto-locking. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Smart 2.0 is Mammut’s assisted belay device. Assisted-Braking It can only accommodate a single rope, but that’s hardly a con and rather a design decision. It is in the mid range weight for assisted braking device. The first generation of the Smart belay device was successfully launched in 2009. There is nothing quite like the bond formed between climber and belayer. If sport climbing is your main gig, then it’s pretty flawless. This technique is commonly referred to as “belaying in guide mode” (for more, see “Belaying a Follower” below). In the vast majority of situations, you will need to rappel on a doubled-over rope (not a fixed line) in order to pull your rope once you’re down. According to Mammut, the Smart Alpine is the first “braking-force support” device that can be used with single, twin and half ropes. Myself and buddy Andre were comparing some of the new devices, and saw others had the same questions – so we put together a little comparison to help out. These have the added benefit of brake assistance when lead belaying but can still allow for smooth double rope rappels. What we don’t like: When there was a need to use the thumb catch, it was tricky to find without looking down. Don't let a long day at the crag mess with the integrity of your belaying. The Jul 2 is a single rope assisted braking device, the Mega Jul takes two ropes and has a sport climbing version as well, and the Micro Jul is the incredibly lightweight version of this for use with Edelrid's super-thin alpine ropes. Rotpunkt: Bibliographie | Alex Megos climbs his hardest project yet, VIDEO: Thomas Van Tonder gets High Above Soweto with 90m Rope Climb Record, From Winning Nothing To Climbing Champion. Von daher bin ich bei diesem Sicherungsgerät geblieben. Was für einige gegen dieses Gerät sprechen könnte, ist das Gewicht, aber ich hatte bisher keinerlei Probleme in Kombination mit weiterem Klettermaterial. !” “I don’t know. I found it much easier to extend on a 60cm sling (doubled, i.e. This is not a large consideration for most climbers, but certainly something to be aware of. This stiff, aggressive shoe is perhaps best known for its ability to perch on tiny edges... Any piece of climbing gear has the potential to become a cherished relic, but perhaps none carries as many good memories as a trusty old rope. Share with Climbers. And food. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Climb ZA.This website is created & maintained by gorilla website development. Ultimately for the purpose of trad multi-pitching, the Mammut smart Alpine is the only affordable and available device I could get my hands on that has the assisted breaking mechanism I was looking for when belaying a heavier person on a trad climb. Probably more so than other assisted brake design belay devices. The Smart is just what I needed as it operates in a very similar way to a traditional belay plate but gives added security of assisted braking. Overall, the Mega Jul and Micro Jul are superior to the Mammut Smart Alpinet. The Mammut Smart Alpine works on 2 ropes what about that? The Jul being steel was a turnoff, and the release action on the Smart didn't feel as smooth. As sport climbers, our most important criteria was for quick and smooth lead belaying so this was our winner. It’s an inexpensive and safe option, good value, and has fantastic control for lowering. Cannot be used for rappelling or double-rope setups.See the Petzl Grigri, Price: $30Style: Auto-blocking tubeWhat we like: Lightweight, affordable, and allows you to belay from above in guide mode. We are relative novices and don’t have a mountaineering/trad background, so this is more geared at other newbies looking at getting an auto-lock device for the first time. Because... We love rock climbing shoes, and we bet you do too. [Photo] Chris Van Leuven Almost 100 percent of the time, the best setup for this sort of belay is an auto-blocking tube device secured to the anchor in guide mode. KwaZulu Natal – Pietermartizburg Plate devices also function well for top belaying, especially when you’re trying to cut weight and bulk. We use affiliate links and may receive a small commission on purchases. There was no fighting with it as the leader. We felt like this was the closest feel to an ATC and it looks it too. Most belay devices are made to handle a range of rope sizes, with tube-style (both standard and auto-blocking) and plate devices being the most versatile and assisted-braking devices having the smallest ranges. This can probably be fixed with gaining comfort with the device, but we feel there are better choices if lead climbing is your focus. Easy to use in a very similar way to a traditional belay plate, but with added security. While it can be possible to operate a device with a rope smaller or larger than specified, it is not optimal and often compromises safety. We’d be remiss not to mention the hazards of using an assisted-braking device. It is simple, and effective belay device. See every climbing brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. The dual rope and multipitch capability is a real pro, and the weight is a bonus. And it was close.” “Did you hear that rush of wind?” “Yeah… like a parachute opening!” “But where did it go?” Megan and I look around... As a beginning climber, the last thing you want to spend your time worrying about is your shoes, or the poor feet you’ve crammed into them on somebody’s bad advice. If it weren’t for the open design causing painful lowering and occasional twisting then this would have won. Mpumalanga – Waterval Boven. KwaZulu Natal – Durban Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. The most popular device for belaying is the tube device, commonly referred to as an “ATC” (this is Black Diamond’s name for their tube device, and akin to calling all tissues “Kleenex”). Learn how to use the Mammut Smart to belay. Full Metal Brisket (5.15a/9a+) — First Ascent! That said, there are myriad options to choose from, and some do the job better than others. I love this device and have the small diameter one for trad and the large diameter one for sport (though with modern skinnier sport ropes I don’t need it as much, just use my trad one). An auto-blocking tube device is hands-down the best tool for belaying a follower up a multi-pitch climb, and we recommend it to any beginning climber interested in expanding their skill set to longer routes. Apparently the GigaJoule addresses the shortcomings of the Mega. Auto-block (resistance belaying a second) High friction in auto-block mode plagued all the devices capable of double rope rappels, especially the Smart Alpine. Two slots allow you to belay with double or twin ropes, and to accommodate such skinny ropes, the new Alpine version comes in two sizes. Finally, many assisted-braking devices can work for a top belay as well, but they add unnecessary heft and are generally less straightforward to use. But for ounce counters, they can provide a great substitute for heavier and bulkier devices. "Active assisted braking" is the primary reason people pick Petzl GriGri 2 over the competition. Modern plates are auto-blocking and are more lightweight and compact than tube, auto-blocking tube, and assisted-braking devices. The GriGri is a great choice, and probably the most widely used assisted braking belay device around. Mammut Smart Alpine| $45 mammut.ch.com ★★★ According to Mammut, the Smart Alpine is the first “braking-force support” device that can be used with single, twin and half ropes. Mammut Smart Alpine| $45 mammut.ch.com ★★ ★ According to Mammut, the Smart Alpine is the first “braking-force support” device that can be used with single, twin and half ropes. The Mega Jul (for ropes 7.8-11mm) is the closest in shape to the Pilot. Well a GriGri only works on one rope, unlike the Mega Jul. Mammut. They outperform the Smart Alpine in lead belaying, and are much smaller and lighter. This covers some more niche options like the Edelrid Mega Jul, Mega Jul Sport, and Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device. Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls. Sound familiar? Smart 2.0 Belay Device (26) 26 reviews with an average rating of 5 out of 5 stars. Instead, we focused on the devices that followed the classic tubular style. Don’t let your guard down when using an assisted-belay device, and always operate as per the manufacturer’s instructions. Active devices—heavier and more expensive, but often easier to operate—have a moving part that engages in the event of a fall (which is then disengaged with a lever). As a belayer, your partner trusts you to catch them when they fall and get them back to the ground safely once they’ve finished a route. If you’re used to belaying with an ATC, and still will outdoors, then the Edelrid Jul or the Black Diamond ATC Pilot offer the most similar slack feeding technique, but use assisted braking tech. We felt confident that with some practice this would not be an issue. Gauteng – Johannesburg A climbing-specific style of footwear, approach shoes offer a unique combination of hiking shoes, climbing slippers, and sometimes even mountaineering boots. Petzl GriGri 2, Edelrid Mega Jul, and Mad Rock Lifeguard are probably your best bets out of the 20 options considered. It seems like every option has an “if only” to it. Registration on or use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Privacy Policy and Disclaimer. Oh yeah, headlamp. Mammut Smart 2.0 Belay Device. About Us. The most versatile ever belay device. Was... Wes: Thanks! However, take note that belay plates are not as versatile as other devices—they’re difficult to operate both for lead belaying and rappelling. The Mammut Alpine Smart Belay is finicky with the type of carabiner that works well with it as you've discovered. I'm pretty sure this was made specifically to work with the Alpine Smart … Share on facebook. ... Mammut Smart 2.0: $30. There are two different types of assisted-braking devices: passive and active. To keep it simple, we sort belay devices into four main categories: tube, auto-blocking tube, assisted-braking, and plate. I knew I was officially a climber when I bought my first pair of approach shoes. In short, a belay device attaches the climber’s rope to the belayer, allowing the belayer to keep the rope taught, catch the climber when he or she falls, and lower them safely to the ground. Because this knot is not intuitive, puts a lot of wear on the carabiner, and causes the rope to kink, we don’t recommend it as an everyday replacement to a belay device. Final thoughts: A great, lightweight and fluid device. Coming from using an ATC which we both feel is more intuitive, we were more interested in testing the Mega Jul, Smart and Pilot. The Smart Alpine is a rivalry of the Mega Jul Sport. Great for rappelling and double-rope setups.What we don’t: Not as secure as the Grigri above.See the Black Diamond ATC Guide. The Mammut Smart: Weight 80 Grams In this scenario, the first climber will descend the rope—fixed at the halfway point—with the assisted-braking device, and the second will unfix the rope and descend with the tube or plate. The Miura VS is a time-tested classic from La Sportiva, offering impressive levels of performance on varied terrain. The plastic part is.. well.. plastic.. but it seems sturdy. Subscribe to our Twitter feed and/or join our Facebook Page, auto-locking devices, belay devices, CityROCK Gear Shop, gear review, Review. Of course, those who wish to dive deeper into the technicalities and variety of options can continue reading. Also, on the Smart Alpine, the rope has a tendency to bind by sliding to the other tube when lowering. This implies that you will need a device with two slots. We found the thumb catch, much like the Mega Jul, only necessary on rare occasions, but incredibly easy to find. Beim Mammut Smart Alpine hat man beide Vorteile vereint: blockiert falls man loslässt und lässt sich jedoch völlig einfach handhaben. Both the Edelrid Mega Jul and the Petzl Grigri are assisted-braking devices. All rights reserved. We don’t have much experience with Gri-gri belaying as we controversially believe it isn’t intuitive, so we omitted the Birdie from our process. Without exception, you should always use a locking carabiner in tandem with a belay device. Like we said, when used correctly, they offer the height of safety for belaying and rappelling. Gambling Casinos tell us that “winners know when to stop”, and when you hit your mid-twenties, assisted braking devices start to look like a good idea. I was way too fat and weak to do it Brenda... Phlip Olivier: That's some really epic footage! But despite this major similarity, there are myriad options, each with its own set of strengths, limitations, and best uses. There is nothing wrong with this, but if you are used to balancing the effort of feeding slack with two-handed motion then this feels limiting and tiring. In top rope and lead belaying scenarios, the two devices operate identically. Performance in guide mode and rappelling are about the same. Our favorites include the super-lightweight Petzl Reverso and the innovative DMM Pivot for its improved lowering abilities in guide mode. The only good thing about Smart Alpine is it produces less drag during guide mode. A tube device is typified by two simple slots and a loop—some of these slots will have teeth on one end, which help to add friction and provide a smoother belay or lower. As always be safe out there. As per the book, it is a real pain as the full weight of the ropes runs over the nose, and must be lifted during the descent. Yes Mammut does have and auto locking belay plate which works on 2 ropes but it doesn't have a guide mode, which is very useful if you are doing a multi-pitch route. It’s fool proof, cheap and would excel on a top rope setup. Of course, it’s OK to belay with a standard locking carabiner, but be sure to keep your eyes on your device from time to time to make sure it is correctly situated. Also worth noting is that the Smart HMS carabiner is specially designed for use with the Mammut Smart 2.0 and it is not meant for using with tube-style belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC-series, Petzl Reverso, or Edelrid Mega Jul. The device was the most comfortable to use. We were really looking for the most pleasant experience for sport climbing. But because of the too catchy con, I guess not. I so wish I could get my hands on a Tre (https://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5172). The open thumb catch means that the rope slides against your thumb and forefinger – potentially exposing your skin to rope burn on thicker ropes (we both experienced this). No idea it that’s true though, never used one. Kat: I came from Gauteng in 2006, was 12 years old. In this scenario, a climber leads a pitch, and—instead of lowering to the ground—builds an anchor and belays their partner up to them. This lightweight belay device is perfect for gym and sport climbing, especially on long days spend climbing and lowering at the crag. The safety element comes with a trade-off – it doesn’t feed slack to the climber very well and when we pulled out slack quickly it had a tendency to lock-up, hindering the climbing process. This device can do everything. Best all-rounder: The Mega Jul was a very close second. The rope also slipped out of the sheath more easily than the other two devices. Read more about us. Carabiners like the Black Diamond GridLock, DMM Belay Master 2, and Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw FG all use slightly different technologies to ensure that this does not happen. So where does the Giga Jul fit into the range? Mammut Smart Alpine Retail: $49.95. There are numerous documented instances of belayers loading their device backwards or opening the lever all the way when lowering their climber, too many of which did not end well. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot (foreground) racked on a harness with the Edelrid Mega Jul. But once mastered, an assisted-breaking device adds a level of assurance to belaying that we really love. Climbing Technology Alpine Up. I used the Mammut Smart (double ropes, large diameter) for about half a year, didn’t notice the “very loud click” nor had any issue paying out slack to lead climber. Plate Performance in guide mode and rappelling are about the same. Western Cape – Montagu Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay Device. The dual rope and multipitch capability is a real pro, and the weight is a bonus. With the Mammut Smart 2.0 Belay Device, you'll have the help of assisted braking on your side. In general, assisted-braking devices are heavier and more expensive than tube-style devices, and most of them (the Mega Jul and Mammut Smart Alpine being two exceptions) are only designed to operate with a single rope. While safety is all about how you use it – it just felt almost impossible to drop a climber regardless of technique or experience. The Birdie seemed to be very similar to the classic auto-locking Gri-Gri which has been around for 30 years without much competition. That was before it got stollen from me. According to many reviews, Mega Jul is cheaper, lighter, feeds slack better, less sensitive to carabiner choice, and has less focused binner wear problem. Whether you spend your days climbing indoors or scaling multi-hundred-foot monoliths, it’s always helpful to know what you need. Review by Fabian Humphry and Andrè le Roux. Auto-Blocking Tube Western Cape – Cape Town If you are a climber... We wake at 6am to the faint jingle of Lorna’s watch muffled by her sleeping bag. Maybe one should always use gloves?

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